Côte-Nord, a.k.a The Whale Route

At the confluence of the St. Lawrence and the Saguenay, with fresh and salt water coming together at the mouth of the Fjord, Tadoussac was once a hub for gatherings and a crossroads of exchange between First Nations who have been present here for 8,000 years. After Jacques Cartier’s visit in 1535, Tadoussac became a fur trading post for the Europeans. It was in 1864 that the village built its first hotel to accommodate summer vacationers in Quebec’s favourite resort, the iconic Hôtel Tadoussac.

To this day, the spectacular Tadoussac Bay and its marine environment are a favourite destination for travellers from around the world. This place is teeming with marine life!

The village boasts a multitude of spots from which whales can be observed. “The oceanographic conditions that occur at the confluence of the Saguenay encourage the emergence of life and the concentration of species at the bottom of the food chain. The uneven underwater topography, the estuarine circulation and the regular upwelling of cold water make it a very distinctive region. It is a choice destination for migratory marine species and a suitable habitat for resident species such as the St. Laurence population of the beluga whale,” according to Parks Canada. Tadoussac is located adjacent to the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, a marine protected area that stretches from Cap-à-l’Aigle in Charlevoix to Les Escoumins in Quebec’s Haute-Côte-Nord (Upper North Shore) region, in addition to extending up the Saguenay as far as Sainte-Rose-du-Nord.

The Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park protects a marine region of exceptional animal and plant diversity: from microscopic algae to the gigantic blue whale, more than 1,800 wild species have been observed here. Feeding grounds par excellence, the Marine Park attracts at least six species of whales, not to mention seals and seabirds that travel thousands of kilometres every year to forage here. The whale-watching industry is well established here, and with good reason. Here are a few places to observe them in Tadoussac.

L’Anse-de-Roche opens out onto the Fjord, providing unique access to the Saguenay, 5 km from Route 172 in Sacré-Coeur. There you will find a beach, a large quay and a picturesque place to unwind tucked deep in the hollow between the valleys. The sunset is breathtaking as the sun dips behind the mountains. At this small port, visitors can discover not only the Saguenay in all its splendour, but also its inhabitants that cruise up and down the Fjord on a daily basis: belugas!

Not only is this a great place for kayaking, but it is also quite common to see herds of belugas here. It is forbidden to approach them, however, and if they approach your craft, don’t stop, but slowly move away! Caution is the watchword, given the precarious status of the population in the Estuary.

For all boats operating in the Marine Park, a distance of 400 metres must be maintained from endangered species (blue whales and belugas) and 200 metres for other cetaceans, according to the Marine Activities in the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park Regulations Further, within a radius of 0.5 nautical miles, one must not stop if belugas are present, but rather continue one’s course without stopping and avoiding any interaction with the animals.

Carved into the mountains and opening onto the Fjord is the Baie Sainte-Marguerite sector of the Saguenay Fjord National Park, the land extension of the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park. Past Tadoussac on Route 138 is the intersection with Route 172; heading toward the Saguenay, the park lies 22 km beyond this crossroads.

Baie Sainte-Marguerite is used by belugas, especially as a place for socializing. It’s not uncommon to observe adults and their young here. The depth of the sandy-bottom bay is around 50 metres, compared to 135 metres in the middle of the Saguenay.

The main attraction of Baie Sainte-Marguerite in summer is undoubtedly the St. Lawrence beluga, which can be observed from a platform overlooking the bay, 3 kilometres from the Discovery Centre. Years of compiled daily observations have shown that belugas were present 60% of the time studied (article in French with bilingual abstract). Your odds of encountering them are pretty good then!

To reach the lookout, follow the path that begins near the visitors’ centre. From there, it’s an easy hike to the observatory parallel to the gently flowing Sainte-Marguerite River. A few vestiges of times gone by punctuate the banks of the watercourse. Historically, nomadic indigenous peoples set up camp here in the spring and fall. Baie Sainte-Marguerite was also colonized around 1910 with the construction of a village.

Cap-de-Bon-Désir

This Parks Canada site checks off all the boxes of even the most demanding observers. With an underwater canyon nearly 300 metres deep at the foot of the rocks, the Laurentian Channel is the perfect place to observe cetaceans from land.

“It’s the steep drop-off in the seabed that enables food sources to be transported toward the surface, which allows fin whales to come and feed close by,” explains partnering, engagement and communications officer for Parks Canada.

You will be able to observe a wide variety of marine mammals and, above all, at very close range. For a day chock full of amazing experiences, Cap de Bon-Désir is the place to be! In summer, naturalists are present on site to describe marine mammals and their environment, which is a big help for learning how to spot whales and better understand what you are looking at.

Visited in 1603 by Samuel de Champlain, the place known as “Lesquemin” already served as a refuge for sailors and a whaling station. “This is where the Basques come to hunt whales,” he writes in his log. Founded in 1845, today Les Escoumins marks the eastern boundary of the Marine Park. Connected to the south shore by a ferry to Trois-Pistoles, Les Escoumins is a highly recommended stop along the Whale Route. The town’s slogan reflects its identity quite well: “Marine life awakens the senses”. From the microscopic to the gargantuan, it is abundant, diverse and highly colourful!

FQAS diving base

A world-famous diving site, Les Escoumins attracts cold water divers from around the globe who come to admire the abundance of colourful mollusks, crustaceans and anemones! Every year, the diving base is used by hundreds of passionate individuals and serves as a gateway to the marine environment. Some even say they can hear whales singing under water!

Longue-Rive is known for its immense salt marsh, its waterfall and the wind! Yes, the wind is such a phenomenon here that it warrants its own festival! The village sports its prettiest decorations during the festivities, while the façades of Longue-Rive’s houses are adorned with kites and weather vanes flapping and spinning in the wind! It is a paradise for sailing and kite-surfing enthusiasts, who sometimes share the river with foraging marine mammals! Thanks to the marsh’s rich nutrients, whales often come to surface feed at the mouth of the Sault-au-Mouton River.

Sault-au-Mouton trail

The Longue-Rive tourist office is conveniently located along the St. Lawrence River, at the Sault-au-Mouton trailhead.

Here you might be lucky enough to see – especially if you’re carrying binoculars or a spotting scope – minke, blue or fin whales surface feeding at the edge of Batture aux Mille Vaches (tidal flats).

Portneuf-sur-Mer is located at the mouth of the Portneuf River, which spills into the St. Lawrence. If you look out to sea from the quay, the view is obstructed by a patch of land. Is it a peninsula? A barachois (tidal pond)? A dune ridge? Forming a 4.5 km long spit sculpted by the action of the waves, the Portneuf sandbar is a source of pride for the village. It is also a prime location for observing seals and whales from the sandbar! Lounging on the sand, binoculars in hand, you’ll surely be able to spot the blows of large rorquals, which seem to be particularly fond of this spot.

The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has recognized the Portneuf sandbar, which is now on the list of Quebec parks and other natural environments of high ecological value.

In addition to the sandbar, Portneuf-sur-Mer features a small picturesque marina on the river. Opposite are a boat ramp and a small pavilion.

Path behind the tourist office

Behind the tourist office is a small path through the salt marsh which leads to the beach and the sandbar. You will then be facing the sandbar, opposite the channel separating the marsh from the Estuary. The Portneuf sandbar is home to a number of mammals such as the muskrat (in the marshes), harbour seal, grey seal and minke whale (in the aquatic zone). Birds can also be seen criss-crossing the sky at this location.

Formerly known as Sault-au-Cochon, Forestville changed its name in 1937 to better showcase its logging and woodworking industries. The city contains a number of archaeological remains and reminders of its economic past. But Forestville also boasts magnificent beaches and a view of the river. What’s more, the sign at the entrance to town will remind you of the one at the top of that now famous hillside in Hollywood. Here it’s the marine life that steals the show, however. Make sure to bring your binoculars!

During the summer, the city is linked by ferry to Rimouski on the St. Lawrence’s south shore. The wharf is always a suitable place to observe seals and whales, which take advantage of the deep waters around the port to come and feed! From golf to diving, fishing to riverside cycling, whale watching to sea kayaking… all of these activities can bring you closer to large mammals and their environment.

At the western edge of the municipality, you will find access to a quay and an unmatched viewpoint of the Ragueneau Archipelago. At the end of the road, a quay and a small path provide fabulous views of the surroundings. In Ragueneau, the horizon is punctuated by islands, geological markers that are testimony to the movement of glaciers thousands of years earlier.

The detour to the quay is well worth it! The nature is rich and the sunsets, unparallelled! Designed in 1994 by Rénald Girard, two life-size dinosaurs might seem out of place at first glance. The dinosaurs symbolize the strength and heart of the region’s pioneers as well as the sheer force of the natural elements early in the municipality’s history.

An obelisk was erected in 1995, also by Rénald Girard. Over 30 metres high, including the base on which it was erected, this structure is said to symbolize volunteering and has 9 levels, which represent Manicouagan RCM and the eight municipalities found within its boundaries. Behind the obelisk is a tiny path that will take you directly to the tip of the spit. From there, you can admire the numerous small islands that dot the northern horizon.

Together, Pointe-Lebel and Pointe-aux-Outardes form a larger peninsula – the Manicouagan Peninsula – that extends over 30 kilometres into the St. Lawrence. This point is known for its long beach and its 4-kilometre wide tidal flats. Low tide as far as the eye can see makes it rather difficult to observe cetaceans.

At high tide, water sports enthusiasts can take advantage of the wind to go kite surfing, kayaking or paddle boarding. The crystal clear sea is completely free of rocks here. The water temperature can rise to 27°C in summer due to its shallow depth. So take the opportunity to take a little dip!

The area also features an exceptional campsite that makes a choice location for star-gazing, considering that it is practically in the middle of the open sea, 30 kilometres from the main coast and far from any light pollution!

The territory bares traces of human history, too, as a number of Aboriginal and later European families settled there on account of the fertile soil. Today, Pointe-aux-Outardes Nature Park is hemmed in by the Outardes River, the salt marsh, the dunes and the sandy tidal flats. The biodiversity-rich park contains eight ecosystems that are each very different from one another. You will pass through a red pine forest before ending up on the beach, better known as the sandy flats.

Understanding the role of the Nature Park’s multiple ecosystems

The salt marsh at the tip plays a critical role in the large ecosystem of the St. Lawrence Estuary. This wetland measures over 500 hectares, making it the fourth largest in the province! “The marsh produces 34,000 kilograms of nutrients per hectare! That equates to 16 million kilograms of nutrients per year, be it plankton, invertebrates, or fish! This area is also frequented by fifteen or so special-status species, so it serves as a sanctuary for avifauna, not to mention the countless ecosystem services it provides: breeding grounds, migratory stopover, filtration, etc. “Truly exceptional services! This is why we are so proud to protect it and strive to preserve it,” explains Denis Cardinal, director of Pointe-aux-Outardes Nature Park.

Beyond the city and its industrial edge hide an extraordinary backcountry and topography that are well worth discovering. Baie-Comeau is built on the riverside. And this river, as we know, is synonymous with whales! The city’s commercial port is important for the region as well as for a number of industries.

Spectacular Comeau Bay was sculpted by glaciers many moons ago! The most recent glacial period, more precisely the Wisconsin glaciation, is responsible for the topographic and hydrographic formation of the Estuary and Gulf region. Roughly 20,000 years ago, the landscape was reshaped and exceptional geological relics were left behind.

The entire territory was covered by a massive glacier over 4 kilometres thick! The Laurentide Ice Sheet, as this great glacier is known, was the largest at the time, covering all of Canada and much of North America, according to the Glacier Exploration Station at the Garden of Glaciers.

When that ice melted or retreated, large volumes of water remained inland to form lakes and rivers and, closer to the Atlantic, the St. Lawrence River and its Gulf.

Named in honour of Jean-Baptiste-Louis Franquelin, hydrographer for King Louis XIV, Franquelin was originally a logging village built on the shores of the St. Lawrence. The proximity of whales colours the history of the village with an array of stories and memories of those who lived here.

One story stands out in particular, that of the late owner of the Franquelin Inn. This salmon fisherman once made the catch of a lifetime. One sunny morning, a minke whale got itself entangled in his salmon net at the mouth of the Franquelin River. Once the meticulous fisherman released it by carefully cutting the ropes, the animal returned to the ocean. But that’s just the beginning of the story! The whale is said to have returned to visit its rescuer every day for many years. A very special friendship between a fisherman and a 6-tonne minke whale! People in the village still talk about it to this day!

GREMM also had the good fortune to obtain weekly data from a passionate observer based in Franquelin. “For nearly twenty years, Céline Ricard noted every single whale and seal sighting she made from her home. No matter what time of year it was, she always had an encounter with a whale or seal to share,” confirms Marie-Ève ​​Muller, editor-in-chief for Whales Online. Unfortunately, this whale enthusiast passed away in 2018, leaving a gap in the map of weekly observations, but her memory remains very much alive for the research group.

Whether in the river or out at sea, fishing is a prominent activity in Godbout. The 112 km long Godbout River slices through the boreal forest before spilling into the St. Lawrence in the village of the same name, on the eastern side of the cove. This river has one of the highest salmon capture rates in Quebec. Is this abundance of salmon the reason why there are so many whales in this area?

Fresh water carried by the river meets the salt water of the St. Lawrence. This phenomenon creates prime feeding grounds for whales, which can sometimes be observed very close to the beaches during the capelin spawning season.

“Pointe-des-Monts is the endless sea,” describes Jean-Louis Frenette, innkeeper at the Pointe-des-Monts lighthouse B&B for over 40 years. A favourite stop along the Whale Route, Pointe-de-Monts juts out into Trinité Bay and faces the Chic-Choc Mountains on the opposite shore. Just 14 kilometres from Route 138, a rich history and nature coexist.

Lighthouse

The large red and white lighthouse at Pointe-des-Monts guided sailors in an era when navigation in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was perilous. Multiple shipwrecks have occurred in the vicinity. After Île Verte (1806), the Pointe-des-Monts lighthouse was the second one to be erected in the St. Lawrence (1829-1830). Since 1830, the lighthouse has been tended by seven different lightkeepers, according to local sources. Several families stayed there to watch over the sailors, 12 months a year!

Historically, geographers – including Samuel de Champlain himself – classified Pointe des Monts as the point of demarcation between the Estuary and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Indeed, the Pointe-des-Monts lighthouse is located at the geographical boundary of the Estuary and the Gulf. For mariners, this is an important landmark in an area known for its reefs and shoals as well as unpredictably variable currents.

As you continue your journey north, past Baie-Comeau, you will slowly lose sight of the Gaspé Peninsula on the opposite shore, which seems to fade away into the open sea. This is the Gulf opening toward the Atlantic, while the region’s boreal character becomes more apparent. Along this stretch of the road, long golden beaches outline the coast. Make a stop in Port-Cartier, at the Patterson Island rest area or in Gallix to walk the sandy beach as the sun dips below the horizon. You may be able to observe seals, porpoises and/or whales!

Bay of Sept-Îles

Jacques Cartier landed here in 1535. The region is rich in both indigenous and European history and cultures. The Bay of Sept-Îles is named after the archipelago that overlooks the bay, essentially consisting of Île du Corossol, Petite and Grande Basque, and Petite and Grosse Boule. The largest city on the North Shore, Sept-Îles is also a prime location for whale-watching. Get out and explore the open sea and the islands; it’s worth it!

Recognized as one of the prettiest villages in Quebec, Rivière-au-Tonnerre owes its name to the acoustic phenomenon caused by the roaring waterfalls along its course, some of them measuring up to 50 metres high. Halfway between Sept-Îles and Havre-Saint-Pierre, a stop at Rivière-au-Tonnerre represents an opportunity to visit the sky-blue wooden church dating from the early 20^th century. Built in the Norman style, the church was erected at a time when the town had no rail or road connection to any other community. An architectural and heritage gem of the North Shore!

Numerous coves, beaches, waterfalls, whale-watching at the old wharf and the ferry crossing to Anticosti are just a few of the reasons to pay a visit to this quiet sanctuary, according to the municipality.

Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan lives up to its name. Its tip stretches out into the Gulf and its long white sandy beach is just gorgeous! Several campsites dot the shores, overlooking the calm and clear water.

Whales are plentiful. This is why the Mingan Island Cetacean Study (MICS) was established here in 1979. This non-profit organization dedicated to the study of marine mammals was founded by Richard Sears. The station was the first to conduct long-term research on cetaceans in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, especially the endangered blue whale. Its main areas of study lie along the North Shore, especially in the Mingan and Anticosti Island region, as well as along the Gaspé Peninsula.

Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan Welcome and Interpretation Centre

Shared by MICS and Parks Canada, the Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan Welcome and Interpretation Centre helps provide a better understanding of cetaceans and their habitat. Documentation, interactive installations and a host of skeletons and marine specimens are waiting to be discovered!

Route 138 has now been crossing the Moisie River for over 30 years. For the first motorists venturing into this part of Quebec’s coast, the road link between Sept-Îles and coastal villages such as Magpie, Sheldrake, Rivière-au-Tonnerre, Mingan and finally Havre-Saint-Pierre, 200 km downriver from Sept-Îles, opened up new horizons. With the extension of the highway, the Mingan Archipelago began to attract the attention of these new visitors.

Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve

The Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve is one of the most spectacular parks in the country! Stretching over 85 kilometres from end to end, the archipelago comprises some thirty islands and numerous smaller islets.

Iconic, erosion-sculpted limestone formations called monoliths punctuate the horizon, standing in the water at high tide and on the tidal flats at low tide. Variable light conditions throughout the day translate into different landscapes over a relatively brief period. Nature is abundant, well preserved and diverse, both on the islands and in the deep crystal-clear waters.

Havre-Saint-Pierre is the gateway to the Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve. Tourism is an important economic activity, given the proximity of the islands. The town is also known for its snow crab, mussel, scallop and lobster fisheries.

Located opposite Anticosti Island, Havre-Saint-Pierre also makes for an excellent jump-off point for those visiting the Mingan Archipelago and its many islands! In 1857, a group of Acadian families from the Magdalen Islands settled here. This charming accent can still be heard amongst some of the town’s residents. The municipality was originally named Pointe-aux-Esquimaux, but was renamed Havre-Saint-Pierre in 1927 in honour of St. Peter, apostle and patron saint of fishermen.

In Havre-Saint-Pierre, a colourful community and a faded seascape await you.

Once the end of Route 138, Natashquan is slowly opening itself up to tourism, growing and shedding its rugged edge as it welcomes curious passers-by to discover the mythical village. This is the place of tranquility and beauty found in the works of poet-songwriter and village native Gilles Vigneault.

When we arrived, a beautiful passage written on a little blue house greeted us: “Let’s raise the mainsail, it’s time to come back to see family and friends…”

We are struck by a curious feeling of homecoming, even if we’ve never set foot here before. Featuring strongly in music and literature, Natashquan’s history has left its mark on Quebec’s cultural heritage. Its colourful little houses are full of friendly folks!

Le Galet

Follow the boardwalk behind the tourist welcome centre. This will lead you directly to the small iconic wooden house-like structures at the edge of a rocky outcrop known as Le Galet, which makes for an ideal place to observe marine mammals.

Kegaska, from the Innu-aimun word “quegasca”, translates as “a shortcut and easy passage at high tide between the mainland and the islands”. Crab fishing is currently the main economic activity in this community. Lying 845 kilometres from Tadoussac, the village is a far cry from the shortcut its name alludes to. In fact, Kegaska is approximately the same distance from Tadoussac as Boston! More precisely, it’s a 10-hour drive along awe-inspiring highway. But Kegaska is best known for this sign: “FIN”. The end.

Three simple letters. And yet…

This sign marks the end of Route 138. Only in 2013 did Kegaska become accessible by car. What awaits you there is raw. If you want to continue your journey east to Romaine or Blanc-Sablon, you’ll have to fly or catch a ferry! Kegaska lies near the farthest reaches of Quebec: on the Gulf, not far from Labrador, beyond the eastern tip of Anticosti. It’s rawness and immensity is overwhelming. This is where we end up after our trek across the North Shore.

En route, the taiga, or boreal forest, becomes increasingly dense, with more and more conifers and lichens, but especially fewer and fewer hardwoods. Forged by a subarctic climate, this habitat consists of forest-type vegetation interspersed with a vast network of lakes created by fluvio-glacial erosion. Then, little by little, large conifers become scarcer, gradually giving way to large wetlands called peat bogs. The landscape is increasingly flat, as if the harsh weather, salty air and strong winds made sure that life stayed low to the ground.

It’s time to go home, now. Let’s go back on the road with this recap video.